Award-winning designer Bianca Saunders has officially made the leap into womenswear, driven by years of organic demand from female customers and a prestigious industry accolade. Winning the BFC/Vogue Designer Prize this year provided Saunders with both the financial resources and the creative leeway needed to bring her debut women’s collection to life—a milestone that marks an exciting new chapter for a talent who has spent nearly a decade defining modern menswear.
Saunders first built her reputation in menswear after launching her research project at the Royal College of Art back in 2017. Reflecting on those foundational years, the designer explains that her early focus was deeply personal and observational. She spent her time studying the people closest to her, closely watching her friends’ body language and exploring their comfort levels with vulnerability and physical exposure.
As her brand grew and gained international recognition, Saunders noticed a persistent trend: women were consistently buying her menswear pieces. They would frequently approach her at industry events to express their admiration for her work. While she found this flattering and lovely, it presented a practical design challenge. Because the garments were meticulously tailored and constructed for a man’s anatomy, the fit was often less than ideal for female bodies.
The persistent interest from female shoppers laid the groundwork for a transition, but the final push into committing to a dedicated womenswear collection came from an unexpected source of encouragement: Louise Trotter, serving as an unofficial mentor to Saunders. Trotter reached out with supportive messages after Saunders won the prestigious Andam Prize in 2022. Saunders speaks of Trotter with profound admiration, noting that the veteran designer has been a monumental inspiration. When the two finally met, Saunders was so moved by Trotter’s generosity and willingness to share insights that she was moved to tears, noting how rare it is for established figures in the fashion industry to offer guidance so openly. Their conversations centered on Trotter’s creative process, team structure, and business operations, giving Saunders invaluable perspective and plenty of strategic concepts to consider as she contemplated expanding her brand.
The culmination of these experiences is a deeply personal collection titled She Was the Most Beautiful Woman I’ve Ever Seen, named directly in honor and admiration of her mother. Saunders’ mother, Yvonne, served as a primary style influence during the designer’s formative years. Recalling her mother’s vibrant aesthetic from the mid-1990s, Saunders smiles as she shares memories of Yvonne working as a hairdresser and business owner, fearlessly heading off to work wearing a striking canary yellow jacket. To illustrate her mother’s enduring spirit, Saunders shares contrasting photographs, capturing her mother both during those bustling business days and later, living life to the fullest on a sun-drenched beach in Jamaica.
While the new collection introduces a completely new category for the brand, it retains subtle, unmistakable traces of Saunders’ signature menswear design language. Savvy observers will spot the asymmetric, "pulled" neckline featured on a tank top, alongside the soft, relaxed, shirt-like tailoring of a gray suit. Yet, the real surprise of the collection is that it is not simply a direct read-over or a scaled-down version of her menswear. Instead, the collection reflects Saunders’ own personal stylistic evolution. When thinking about how she presents herself at events and public appearances, Saunders notes that she naturally gravitates toward an ultra-feminine aesthetic. She loves experimenting with her hair, wearing fitted clothing, and embracing a sense of sexiness. Consequently, this debut womenswear line is deeply tied to her own journey of self-discovery.
Because the debut is launching with a summer collection, the lineup is infused with warmth, ease, and vibrancy. Standout pieces include a striking hot pink slip dress and unique prints featuring photographs of Jamaican sunsets that Saunders captured herself while visiting relatives on holiday. These items are paired effortlessly with fluid, draped jersey pieces and elevated tracksuits designed with a semi-formal, go-to-work presence. Saunders notes her appreciation for versatile garments that allow her to transition seamlessly from early morning engagements to late-night outings while looking effortlessly put-together.
As a thoughtful and intensely considered designer, Saunders expresses immense gratitude for the BFC/Vogue prize, which arrived at a critical juncture by providing the resources and creative freedom necessary for expansion. She notes that the win came precisely when she needed to solve practical wardrobe problems for her growing customer base, leaving her genuinely excited for the future of her brand.
